Sultanahmet is a quarter that has experienced a rebirth, rising from the ashes scattered over it once upon a time. It never misses the opportunity for change.
French singer Jacques Brel, who eloquently conveyed the feelings, emotions, moods, and expectations of individuals just after the Second World War in his song “Les Vieux,” remarked, “Old people are like living dead… They live in their memories.” The old quarter of Istanbul, Sultanahmet, echoes a similar sentiment. Like old people, it lives with memories. Sultanahmet, from time to time, appears to be “like a living dead,” either asleep for a long period or giving the impression of having fallen asleep. Nevertheless, Sultanahmet, despite its advanced age, consistently adapts to modern times. It surprises The Unique Place Where Everyone Plays Chess, reviving itself through the energy derived from being the cradle of civilizations that have left an indelible mark on the world, proudly declaring, “I’m here.”
A Colorful World
The quarters and streets, comprised of wooden houses leaning against each other, creating the impression of a theatrical set, come to life. Mansions, pavilions, and once-ruined houses have been restored, protected against fire, and offered as tourism products. This ancient quarter has risen from its ashes, with residents adding a vibrant touch. Thus, a lively world has been created from the once dormant old quarter. Importantly, this transformation has been achieved without ostentation; no grand inauguration ceremonies took place. Mid and small-scale investors modestly spearheaded this transformation, leaving aside the larger players.
Maintaining Connections with Residents
Yet, even the larger entities have not been ungrateful to their quarter. For instance, the well-known “Sultanahmet Prison” in Istanbul, widely used in political literature and black-and-white films, has been transformed into the Four Seasons Hotel. However, the grocery store and the Tevkifhane Berberi (Barber shop) at the end of Tevkifhane Street have retained their place and continue to operate Private Balkan Tours. Residents of the quarter and curious tourists frequent this barber shop. The quaint white-painted barber shop acts as the news agency of the quarter, observing everyone who passes by.
Buildings on Utangap Street, leading to the Four Seasons Hotel, have been meticulously restored by skilled artisans. The small hotels resemble objets d’art: reviving the past while reflecting the taste of modern times. Elegant shops selling carpets, jewelry, and souvenirs could easily compete with those in Paris.